MARUFUKU

2018/12/30

Good-old Kyoto sushi which is loved by people of Uzumasa

 

“If old people in the neighborhood are gone, I think my restaurant will be also gone.”

“The taste of sushi loved by people of Uzumasa”

Toei, Shochiku and Daiei ordered for supper

At preparation time in the morning, Eikichi Yazawa’s song is playing. He cooked Kinshitamago (thinly shredded egg omelet) with a practiced hand. He looks cool while doing it. “I was unwilling to succeed. My father asked me to help for only 1 month.

When I realized, I was enjoying it. So I have been doing this job since then.” His name is Nobuyuki Yokota. When he was 22, he started making sushi. He is the third generation of Marufuku with the history of 80 years.

 

When I sat at the quaint counter, I could see old Okamochi (wooden carrying box) and Sushi Oke (wooden bowl for sushi) for assorted sushi were arranged on a shelf. On New Year’s Day and during Obon, all Sushi Okes are used for catering. “From the old days, catering is flourishing in these area. They always order sushi for cerebration and Buddhist memorial service. Although now it is getting less, Shochiku and Toei often order for supper.” He got 50 orders of sushi at the most from a film studio. Assorted sushi means sushi rolls, Hako-sushi (pressed sushi) and Oboro sushi, not Nigirizushi (hand-shaped sushi). It is very Kyoto style.

 

The Taste that is Loved by People of Uzumasa

Sushi with Simple Ingredients

 

Popular sushi orders of Marufuku are always the ones with simple ingredients. For example, sushi roll. It is rolled and wrapped the simple vinegared rice with dried gourd shavings, shiitake mushrooms, edible clovers and rolled omelette mixed with fish paste. “My father liked simple. Locals know my father’s taste and come to buy, so I don’t want to change. Actually I cannot cook complicated meals.” Mr. Yokota’s first work in morning is cooking dried gourd shavings, shiitake mushrooms and rice. He cooks dried gourd shavings and shiitake mushrooms separately, changes dashi and flavor little by little, and flavors simply. “I make box sushi with only pike conger.

Now, a few restaurant still make it.”

Secret Ingredient is Pike Conger

Popular Dish in Winter is Mushi-zushi (Steamed Sushi)

 

Steamed sushi becomes rare although people in Kyoto love it. “When it becomes cold, my customers ask, ‘Do you serve it yet?’ and make me rushed. They seem to like it.” He chops dried gourd shavings and shiitake mushrooms finely, and also he chops a secret ingredient, pike conger and mixes it in vinegared rice. He puts grilled cut open Anago (conger eel) and thick shiitake mushrooms and covers Kinshitamago at the end. It takes longer than hand-shaped sushi but locals, especially older people, love it, so it is a popular dish in winter. “If old people in neighborhood are gone, I think my restaurant will be also gone.” On Saturdays and Sundays, some customers come to drink at 2:00 pm and stay until night. “Some customers ask to make sushi rolls while he or she goes shopping at a shopping street.” Marufuku is not popular with tourists, but it is loved by locals.